rocktober

I've been sprinting out to Lucky Strike whenever my class schedule, the weather, and my tips will allow. New problems keep springing up, but the list of projects seems to be compiling even faster. So far roughly thirty problems have been established. Its been fun getting back into shape on fresh stone, as it does not come with the usual frustration of flailing on problems I have done with ease in the past. The disadvantage however, is that we have no idea what to grade anything. Kyle and I were talking about it, and I don't believe we've climbed on a previously established problem all fall, which equates to no fame of reference. ...Not that it matters much. 

 Looking out to the Sky Ranch Arete, with Red Mtn and the Highlands in the background.

 Sky Ranch arete up close. Double heel hooks?

 Looking into the clusters of the two main hills of Lucky Strike.

Zooming in on the "Red Light district."

Well my clothes once again smell like campfire, which me sending season is upon us. Leaving for the Limestone of Townsend in 20 minutes, assuming I can find my harness. 

The most gangster, moderate (low-end), climbing video in the history of suburban white-boys listening to rap.

I went out to Lucky Strike today with the intention of getting a send of the Long Knife on video. Which, it turns out, was a poor idea. The other night, Kyle (my room mate) convinced me that weighted pull ups were the best way to get really strong in hurry. ...Or the best way to feel wrecked for multiple days in a row. Instead, I made a video of an easier problem I put up a week or so ago. 

P.S. This video is worth watching again just to listen to how absurd this song is.

P.P.S. I don't drink purple drink, nor think I'm a G.

Gems.

 I've developed something of a pattern with my weekends, which generally goes like this: climb, hike, climb. This weekend was no exception. After bagging West Goat on Saturday, John David and Sarah came over from Bozeman and Missoula respectively to sample the development at Lucky Strike. ...JD takes pretty pictures.

Hiking in through the aspens. 

 Sarah so close on "The Shaft of Doom." Instant, easy classic.

 JD, defining the beta.

 She's not little.

 Continuing with the classy names, Sarah cruxing on "Browneye."

 The day ended with us cleaning up a problem I've been eyeballing for some time. Sarah attempting the newly established "Pretty Shield."

Pretty Shield from another angle. This block will hold multiple quality problems.

Getting back out for some projecting with Kyle this afternoon. ...The advantage of Butte.

Lucky Strike: more development.

Technically speaking,  Lucky Strike Canyon is a few gulches over, but the Lucky Strike boulders seemed like a fitting name considering the potential quality. In fact, much of the rock is high enough grade that much of it was quarried back in the day.  I've been returning whenever possible (only 20 minutes from my house to chalking up), and Kyle and I have been steadily cleaning and adding new problems. No better way to get back into fall climbing shape, then sprinting through the woods like an idiot, gunning for new problems. 

 Sheep Eater V4+

White girl problems V3

 Navajo high-step V2

 Perhaps the best find was The Long Knife project: a long, well attached flake, which gashes its way out of a steep corridor, and finishes with a dyno to the lip.

Kyle feeling out the rail. 

The sequence:

From another angle:

 The dyno. Aka the crux. 

A closer look at the feature. 

All the moves have been sussed and stuck, now its just a matter of linking. Hopefully there will be a video soon. 

Nuevo Boulders.

 With the temps starting to cool just slightly, returning to the batholith (specifically the higher sectors) is becoming tempting once again. My roommate / Missoulian transplant Kyle has been high on motivation for a while now, and has been crushing new problems throughout the top of the pass. Yesterday, we went to go scope a potential new zone I'd eyeballed on a trail run the week previously. In truth, I was mainly thinking this area might make a good little training circuit, but the quality and features of the rock (a rare batholith combo) have me convinced it may turnout to be the closest and quickest legit area for Buttians (All 5 climbers in town).

Kyle getting a quick FA on Old Ironsides V4. Pretty neat finish on this one. 

 Getting ready to launch on an excellent seem-to-seem dyno. 

Still a project...

Send of the day was a stellar new V6 dubbed "The Great White Buffalo." Awesome and smooth rock with a  wild double thumb-catch crux. Here is the sequence:

A look at the crux from another angle.

Expect more soon.

The Orphan Girl (a Butte gem)

I found this little beauty a while back but was never sure it was worth it to establish a problem that was completely isolated from other worthy stone. After revisiting it on a hike however I decided that is what makes this problem more compelling. Steep moves, scary top out, pretty scenery, perched high above a creek. I'm convinced its one of the better problems for its grade in the batholith, especially for the Buttian side of the pass. The stone is typical of the west side, but overall very solid, and will only get better with more climbing.

Here is a little video I made. This blog is getting classier by the day. 

May-lay

Whelp, semester is almost over which is excellent as my academic achievement seems to be inversely related to sunny days and nice weather. Some interesting stuff to report since my last post. < <<

Due to some weird spring weather i decided to spend my Saturday scoping some boulders, local Buttian Kevin Hutchison tipped me off about somewhere along the CDT. The patina face above was perhaps the prettiest of many nice looking lines.(Yes I pirated this photo from yall)<<<

Aside from the pretty boulders and scenery, the highlight of the day was coming face-to-face with one of these guys. Usually when I hear a little crashing in the woods, I assume I spooked a deer, so when a very large cougar popped out running in my direction, it took a couple of seconds to realize what I was looking at. I tried to snap a pic with my phone but was to busy peeing myself. <<<

This weekend marks the most gluttonous time of the year: Graduation Season. Spamblock's (pictured above)demands that I attend the festivities means that probably be spending the weekend in a collared shirt and khakis, pretending like I'm sober while talking to the relatives of random graduates.<<<

Hopefully I will be fueled by ample (and free) amounts of this stuff, which tends to run like water at grad parties.<<<

Which I hopefully will be able to overcome by Sunday, when flailing in the deep woods of Lolo. Every once in a great while I've seen noteworthy sends accomplished in dire states of hung-overdom... Here's to hoping.<<<

Then in short order Sarah and I will be heading here. No, not Austria but the next best thing (only a bit of an exaggeration): Washington.<<<

Rumored to be home to granite so clean it makes Lost Horse look like choss. (photo ripped from koan bouldering (cool blog worthy of peeping))<<<

The best part of this, is that we will hopefully be guided by these two goons. (Note: Due to an unfortunate fall, Sam now climbs in this very helmet.)<<< ...................................................Here is to three weeks of school free flailing!

Bouldering via google images

Sarah, down from Missoula for springbreak has been on a bouldering tear lately, ticking off sends on some of Whiskey's most classic moderates. Most of which were projects that have plagued her for years. Instead of posting the same tired photos of boulders you've probably seen 100 times before, I decided to google image search their names and post my favorite picture instead. Fortunately, she avoided problems like "fagatron" or "the young and the breastless," otherwise this blog would no longer be PG.

Sends thus far include:


The Senile Traverse


Bone and Barbwire


Yoda


Waverunner

Meanwhile, I got throttled by the boogyman

It was most unpleasant