On Thursday, Kyle (spacecat) Neely and I headed out to the Trailers for an afternoon session, which involved quick sends of the Pope's Simulator, and realizing that we are both short on Heart of Darkness. (Neither of us sent, but Kyle deemed the sds to be MT's next rad v10+ probelm.) Then Kyle wanted to go sus' some beta, on an old Dwight line on the Queen. Given that we only had my mondo and no ropes, this was probably a poor idea.
On Saturday, the Dizzler and I pilgrimaged to Whiskey, with a long list of problems to try. I managed to get an FA of a little line called Western Grip (v4), in the recently developed cluster directly in the middle of the main area (near that weird red cave). We then both got shot down by top-out of the Whiddler (v7), before finishing up the day, Erik Christianson's newish problem, Full Gravity Daze (v5). A neat little problem which involved a fun dyno, and some ugly face dragging falls.
A shitty pic of myself on the Whiddler, that does no justice to the problem nor my old climbing sweat pants.
Side note: A few years back I stumbled upon a white shipprow like mini-butress above what became new whiskey. The other day, I went looking for it again and found it cleaned and chalked with a large landing area constructed and a ladder stashed. It looked as though a lot of work had gone into the lines and I was wondering if they are still projects or are established and open? Beta por favor.
Psyched you found FGD! You did it with a dyno?!?! Did you try a toe hook? Can't imagine sticking that hidden divot on top dynamically... Is "Western Grip" a steep arete about 300 feet east of Wave Runner? If so, I think it's actually "Reed's Arete" (Reed's Area in Alek's guide). I noticed the chalk on it yesterday on my way out.
ReplyDeleteThe prow above the End of the Road has two V7's on it. The SDS on the prow is "Warped Existence" and a few feet to the left is "Black Hole" (crouch start matched on a bad hold, I think). You heading back anytime soon?
-EC
Ha, I tried the toe hook but had to develop some little man beta. Cool problem.
ReplyDeleteDamn, I thought for sure I'd snagged a low hanging fruit FA, based on the dirtyness and loose rock on the arete. I lost my old guide, though so had no way of making sure... I should probably fact check before proclaiming new lines.
Yeah I'm sure I'll be heading over sat and/or sunday. Yourself?
Nice to hear ya went back to the trailers. That SDS on Heart of Darkness will be ill for sure! I'd be happy just nabbing the stand...
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