Hell Guard (Hilgard)

Let me start by saying, that attempting to summit a remote peak via an untested approach, with unreliable beta, and girlfriend recovering from a vicious spat of giardia is a bad idea. Yet those were the set of circumstances I decided would make for a grand labor day. Sarah and I decided we would attempt to climb Mt. Hilgard (the high point of the Madison Range, and highest in MT outside of the Beartooths) by backpacking into the Hilgard Basin and using that as our base camp. Although summitpost and the Peakbagging Montana agreed on little in regards to Hilgard, this was the recommended approach of neither.


Echo Peak above the Hilgard Basin. A little bit of scenery.


Our base-camp. Blue Paradise Lake lived up to its name.


The problem with our plan was the approach. As this pic shows pretty clearly, just reaching the base of the mountain involved crossing a field of talus that would make Mordor look weak. Plus we had no axes or crampons for the easier snow couloir. By the time we gained the east ridge energy was running low.


The partner, obviously nervous about our lack of reliable route information.


Sarah on what we believed to be the correct route.


True summit from the broken summit ridge. Unfortunately not traversable. This would be as close as I'd get.


My false summit is the knob at left. Sonofabitchpieceofshithellassturdwanker!!!!


At least the descent included an epic/terrifying ice coulee.


Myself showing Hilgard how I truly feel. (Yes, that is the middle finger.) Again, talus for miles!

Despite obvious frustration, the overall trip was awesome. I would highly recommend this area to any one.

P.S.
Special thanks to Dennis and Bill. (these guys were so badass they were trying to hunt mountain goats with longbows! wtf?) who hooked us up with coors and doritos after our fail. Muchas, muchas gracias.